The 4 a.m. breakfast map

Baytown eats breakfast before dawn because the plants do. Shift change at ExxonMobil, Chevron Phillips and Covestro puts a few thousand people on the road between four and six, and a handful of places have been feeding them for decades. This is where.

The Cuban Cafe, 4232 Decker Drive. Doors at four on weekdays; later on weekends. By five the counter is full of high-vis jackets and the café con leche is coming out faster than the register can ring it. Get the pressed Cuban or the eggs with plantains; this is the only place in town that does it, and it's better than most of Houston's.

Doughnut Wheel. Opens at 3:30 in the morning, which is not a typo. Kolaches sell out first, then the glazed. If you're there at seven you're getting what's left. Closing time is the one thing nobody agrees on — the door says one thing and the internet says another — so don't count on afternoon.

Denna Donuts, 7328 FM 3180. The east-side donut shop, 4:30 in the morning till noon. Kolaches and glazed for the Cedar Bayou crews who'd rather not drive to Garth.

Heart and Whisk, 4618 North Main. The opposite end of the spectrum — pastry, good coffee, a line by nine on weekends. Go on a weekday. Sells out; when it's gone it's gone.

The rule: anything on this list that's open at five is closed by two. Plan lunch somewhere else.